🇮🇩⛴️ Fried bananas and sweet potatoes, fruits I’ve never seen before, phone accessories, gold jewellery, souvenir t-shirts, whole barbecued fish on a skewer, ice cream, rice in all its variations, bluetooth speakers we desperately hope our neighbours don’t buy…everything is on offer from the hawkers wandering the decks of Indonesia’s public ferries. Every surface is occupied, the stair wells seem to be where the vendors sleep, their wares in front of them, ready to wake for a sale.
The faces on the ferries detail the myriad influences and migrations that these outer Indonesian islands have seen. Papuans, other melanasians, Bugis from Sulawesi, Chinese, Javanese, Arabian faces, and certainly some portugese and dutch genes in the mix. Many women wear the hijab, occasionally we see a women in full burqua, while many go uncovered. As we go further west we leave the majority christian areas behind and the presence of the hijabs grows.
Most passengers pass their time glued to their phones, playing music for the great benefit of all around them, or playing games and watching videos. Extension cords and charging cables run all over the decks. The other favourite activity of our fellow passengers is smoking cigarettes, with plenty of smoking going on inside. We reflect that not once have we seen someone reading a book or newspaper since arriving in Indonesia. As we get closer to major cities and then Java, and as we leave the ferries behind, we wonder whether these impressions will change.
Ambon, where we spent a few days between ferries, offered us kilometres of market alleys to explore, and charming residential lanes with many steps and narrow passages protecting these lush areas from the noise and smell of cars and motorbikes. We were easily cajoled into enjoying the local speciality of fried bananas with chili paste, and bananas in a ginger and coconut milk soup. The Ambon War Cemetery was a surprise discovery and haven of peace and order. The resting place of over two thousand soldiers from across the Commonwealth and Holland, all died trying to slow the Japanese advance, or in the prisoner of war camp that had stood on the same ground.
Leaving Ambon with a ferry at 6AM, we had a 20 hour passage through to Bau-Bau, then another 18 hours to Makassar. Makassar, or Ujung Padang, was where my Mum and Dad started their honeymoon, so we decided to spend a night there to walk some of the same streets as they did, 35 years later. Up early again for another ferry, 24 hours later we arrived in Surabaya, Indonesia’s second largest city and a monstrous port. Boats of all kinds stretched as far as the haze of pollution allowed us to see, underlining the sheer scale of the population and economy of such Asian cities. In downtown Surabaya, buildings from the Dutch colonial period stood out like dust covered gems in an otherwise very modern city. After sweating across town, the 6 hour train ride to the coast next to Bali was a welcome change. Even more welcome was the vibrant green of the endless rice paddies and the soft evening light falling on the coconut palms and bamboo. We feel ourselves reawakening, excitement building at the coming prospect of days outside of cities and boats, and in the splendour of such luxuriant vegetation.
Meeting up with friends Jordan and Dara in Bali, it’s an absolute pleasure to put down the backpacks ks for a minute, and to discuss all the thoughts and questions on Indonesia and beyond that have been running through our minds. While enjoying the greenery, great food and beaches that Bali has to offer, it’s the discovery of Udara yoga centre that really puts a smile of wonder on both our faces. It’s a magical haven of peace, creativity and an opportunity to feel the benefits of exercise with the ocean wind around us! We’re now well and truly on the tourist trail, and getting excited about a few days by the beach on the Gili Islands, before continuing our journey West!
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