🇮🇩🛵 There is an undeniable charm to Bali. Our chatty taxi driver Gustus was adamant that there is a lot of energy and magic on this island, and, frankly, I agree with him. The spell on us was made even more powerful by the delightful company of our local friends Dara and Jordan.
Prior to coming back to Bali, we spent a few days on Gili Trawangan, one of the three confetti of sand and coconut trees off the coast of Lombok. Gili T was a sharp contrast to the refinement of Bali temples, as this specific island is more the temple of backpacker parties than hindu ceremonies. However the prospect of a good boogie, as well as coral reefs, colourful picasso triggerfish (google it!) and relaxed beach fronts was exactly why we chose to go there to celebrate my birthday. Yes, turning 32 but feeling 23 (or not!). Swimming with nonchalant and ever so graceful turtles, marveling at beautiful underwater sculpture, coral and fish, sipping cocktails on the beach and jumping in and dancing in a foamy pool while watching the sunset with my one and only – it was wonderful.
We enjoyed this blue paradise island episode, and going back to Bali’s vivid rice paddies, blooming bougainvillea and frangipani trees, hindu architecture and lush and fertile forest brought enchantment to the next level. Our taxi driver Gustus spoke unexpectedly excellent English and proved to be the most interesting character. From his drug-dealing teenage years, to how meditation saved him, stories of black magic, and how Balinese culture is as vibrant as ever, the 3 hour ride to Munduk gave us incredible insights into the life, society and beliefs of Balinese people. The next few days were also going to be a testament to the blessing that having no expectations can be, together with spontaneity and great friendships.
It was rather impromptu that we decided to join our friend Johannes and his two fellow German friends Moritz and Thomas for a hike up an old volcano near Munduk. We ascended Mount Batukaru, a mighty 1000+ ascent in less than 2 hours – brutally vertical. However it is no secret that Tim and I are happiest hiking in the forest and preferably on a mountain. And so while we endured the physical challenge of a trail that goes straight up, we could feel our minds and hearts filling with awe and joy while admiring the rainforest. Australian species such as casuarinas and gumtrees were meeting tropical jungle – usually typical of ecosystems on the so-called « Wallace line » where the Australian flora and fauna meets the Asian one. At the summit, when we were invited by a local guide to join him as he made offerings and prayed, I closed my eyes and expressed my gratitude to be here with Tim. Our love of nature and fertile earth would continue to be filled in Munduk, exploring rice paddies and terraces covered in coffee, cacao, vanilla, clove, coconut, papaya and many more fruitful plants.
We discussed spirituality and culture at great length on another beautiful day out with Dara and Jordan. Whilst some areas of Bali seem to be developing fast, with rice paddies being developed to attract westerners in search for a rather idyllic lifestyle in this enchanting place, others seem still preserved from too much western influence. Following them and zooming on our scooter, we marveled at the fact that each house resembles a temple, with intricate stone work, golden deities and beautiful pagodas.
Beyond the glam and touristy Bali, there is a Bali that is still profoundly agricultural, where bricks and tiles are traditionally made using dried coconut husks to fire kilns, where locals dressed with beautifully decorated sarongs and headpieces perform very regular rituals celebrating family, gods and nature, where the air smells of incense and frangipani, and where you can still eat a cheap and most delicious Dadar Gulung. One can only hope that reality will echo Gustus’s words and that Balinese culture and nature will stay strong and proud enough to avoid becoming a place which could as well be on the Gold Coast or the French Riviera.
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